The Sierra Club in the United States established the following grades for the ease of describing the difficulty of climbing routes in the early years:
The first level is on the rocky slopes, which is generally not used to help balance. The second level is sometimes used by hand, but beginners and inflexible people do not have to use ropes to protect them. Three levels are quite dangerous after falling, and often use hands. It's best to prepare the rope. The fourth level requires certain climbing techniques. Most people think that because of the danger of life if they fall, the rope is necessary. General climbers need protection and protection points are easy to find.
Five levels must use ropes and protection to prevent serious consequences from falling, requiring special climbing and protection techniques to varying degrees. Starting from this level is called "Technology Climbing".
The five levels were originally divided into 10 levels according to the degree of difficulty, called "Yosemite Decimal System" (or YDS.Yosemite also translated "Yosemite Land").
In the form of "5.0", "5.1", "5.2", "5.10", the definition is more than 5.10 is the sixth level, that is, must use manual instruments directly to climb. However, with the advancement of rock climbing techniques and equipment (climbing shoes, magnesium powder), yds has become an open grade, so with "5.11"... In order to subdivide the grade, in each "digital grade" after 5.10, according to the difficulty Points a, b, c, d four times "letter grade". The most difficult route in the world is probably
5.14c or 5.14d. The difficulty of the new route is based on the level of experience that the climber has previously climbed.
(Very subjective) Gives a rough idea, then climbs more people, and the subjective level is slowly fixed.
For example, when the hardest grade was 5.10, someone climbed a new route and felt that it was 5.10.
The difficulty is higher than the difficulty between 5.10 and 5.9. Therefore, it must exceed 5.10 this man.
The prescribed five-level ceiling calls it 5.11.
In general, people who have no training can go up to 5.6, and those who have basic technical training are 5.6-5.9.
Starting from 5.10 requires frequent technical and strength training. But this is a very general statement.
The yds are rated on the route according to the most difficult "technical action" of a route. There are ten 5.10 moves and only one 5.10 action route near the ground is 5.10. And the different nature of the route (planar, crack, friction) The level of ...) is actually sometimes difficult to compare. However, there are more people climbing, and the level becomes objectively strict. English, French, German and Australian have their own hierarchy. British rank consists of two parts: technology and risk.
With a strict grade, route selection and training improvement are easy. But it's boring to pursue numerical grade rock climbing. But this is a matter of personal taste.
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